GENERAL HOT TUB INFORMATION

ALL INFORMATION IS PROVIDED AS GENERAL HELP INFORMATION TO BE USED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

AFTER FILLING THE HOT TUB THROUGH THE FILTER AREA IF POSSIBLE.

STARTUP

  1. With power off let the air out of the heater chamber.
  2. Switch on the power and activate the pump at high speed by pressing the jet button twice.
  3. Switch off the power again and let the air out of the heater chamber once more.
  4. Switch on the power and activate the pump at high speed again to ensure water is flowing through the jets and any air has been expelled from the spa’s plumbing. Once there’s no more air passing through the heater chamber, you can increase the temperature and start enjoying your hot tub.

Please note that air in the heater chamber heats up faster than water. The temperature sensors display the temperature inside the heater chamber. If they detect a rapid temperature increase, they will show “OH” at 108°F (42.2°C) and “HLer” above 112°F (44.4°C).

If the temperature in the heater chamber falls below 104°F, you can press ‘SET’ to clear the “HLer” message. This ensures that enough water is flowing through the heater to cool it down.

Failure to follow these instructions could result in a heater dry fire, which may damage the water and temperature sensors located on the heater manifold.

The temperature displayed on your spa’s topside controller doesn’t match the temperature measured by a separate calibrated thermometer

  1. Ensure the pump that circulates water through the heater is ‘ON’ for at least 10 minutes before comparing temperatures between the controller’s Temperature Sensor and your thermometer.

General Information About Spa Construction

All hot tubs are designed with two temperature sensor circuits. One is the Hi-Limit Sensor (HLM) and the other is the Temperature Sensor (SENS). The Hi-Limit circuit is designed to shut power ‘OFF’ if the temperature where the Hi-Limit Sensor is located exceeds 112°F (44.4°C). The Temperature Sensor (SENS) senses and displays the spa water temperature at the location where the sensor is inserted. It also allows the user to set the desired water temperature from 45°F (7.2°C) to 104°F (40°C). On most spa controls, both sensors are located on the heater manifold. However, some spas have their Temperature Sensor located on the spa shell and the Hi-Limit Sensor located on the heater manifold. When comparing the displayed temperature to your thermometer, you must take the temperature reading from your thermometer near where the Temperature Sensor is located on your spa for an accurate comparison.

If the Temp and Hi-Limit Sensors are located on the heater manifold:

The heater manifold is located inside the spa cabinet. If the sensors are located at the heater manifold, the Temperature Sensor senses the water temperature inside the heater manifold (near the heater element), displays the sensed temperature on the top display, and commands the heater circuitry accordingly. In many spa applications, especially during winter, the temperature inside the spa cabinet where the control and heater are located will be different (usually lower) than the water temperature inside the hot tub. When the pump is not circulating water through the heater manifold, the temperature of the water volume inside the heater manifold (approximately 0.3 gallons [1.2 liters]) may drop a lot faster than the temperature of the water volume inside the hot tub (200+ gallons [750+ liters]). In addition, the back of the spa shell is insulated with several inches of foam, but the spa cabinet itself may not be insulated (or poorly insulated). Cold air penetrates through the spa cabinet and lowers the temperature of the pipes including the heater manifold where the sensors are located. The Temperature Sensor will display the temperature it is sensing in the heater manifold. If the pump is ‘OFF’ and not circulating water through the heater housing, the temperature inside the heater housing will continue to drop quickly. Once the temperature drops 15 to 20 degrees below the desired temperature setting, the freeze guard circuitry will energize the low pump circuitry continuously.

To check the temperature accuracy:

  1. Turn the circulating pump ‘ON’ for 15 minutes (to circulate water through the heater manifold).
  2. Using a separate, properly calibrated thermometer, measure the temperature at the heater manifold and compare it to the display.
  3. If the measured temperature is within +/-9°F (5°C) of the displayed temperature:
    • Solution A: Use the calibration ‘CALB’ procedure on our controller and calibrate the Temperature sensor to match your thermometer.
    • Solution A1: Using flame-retardant insulating material, wrap the temperature sensor, the strain relief, and the area immediately below the strain relief on the manifold itself (the entire manifold may not be needed).
  4. If the measured temperature is >18°F (10°C) of the displayed temperature:
    • Solution 1: Try to better insulate your spa cabinet.
    • Solution 2: Change the location of the Temperature Sensor to be inside the spa shell (you risk losing freeze protection at the heater manifold).
    • Solution 3: You may need to change the Temperature Sensor, or very rarely, the circuit board.

ALL INFORMATION IS PROVIDED AS GENERAL HELP INFORMATION TO BE USED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

GFCI trips within 60 seconds of turning the power “ON”

  1. Turn the power “ON”. Press and hold the upper arrow (marked Temp) for 2 seconds. The temperature setting will start flashing.
  2. Press the down arrow (marked Time) to lower the temperature setting down to 45°F (7°C) and press Set. Now the heater is “OFF”. With the temperature set low, the heater will stay OFF.
  3. Go through all the functions of your spa with the heater OFF. If the GFCI does not trip, then the heater is shorted to the ground and needs to be replaced.
  4. To be sure, raise the temperature back up to energize the heater. If the GFCI trips, then the heater has a fault and needs to be replaced.

Exceptions: There is a rare possibility that the PC board is shorted to ground. Usually, there are burn marks on the PC board terminals where the black wires feeding the heater are connected. 

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) that trips immediately. 

  1. Unplug all accessories: If the GFCI does not trip, the issue is likely with one of the accessories.
  2. Test each accessory individually: If the GFCI trips when a specific accessory is plugged in, that accessory is likely faulty and needs to be replaced.
  3. Check the PC board: If the GFCI still trips with all accessories unplugged, the PC board might be shorted to the ground. Look for any burn marks on the board. If there are no burn marks, it’s unlikely that the board is the problem, but you may choose to replace it.
  4. Replace the GFCI: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, the GFCI itself might be faulty and needs to be replaced.

Remember to always prioritize safety when working with electrical systems. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable with any of these steps, consider consulting with a professional electrician.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) that trips when a specific function is energized. 

  1. Unplug the accessory for the function: Turn the GFCI “OFF” and unplug the electrical accessory from the spa control for the function that causes the GFCI to trip. For example, if the GFCI trips when Pump (2) is energized, unplug Pump (2) from the spa control.
  2. Test the function: Turn the GFCI “ON” and activate the function. If the GFCI does not trip, then the accessory device is likely faulty and needs to be replaced.

Remember to always prioritize safety when working with electrical systems. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable with any of these steps, consider consulting with a professional electrician.

A heater that’s shorted to ground.
This can happen when the heater, which must be fully submerged in water, is instead exposed to a mixture of air and water. This can cause the heater to overheat and damage the electrical insulation, leading to a short circuit. In some cases, the heated air can even cause an explosion, damaging the heater housing.

Here’s a summary of the issue and the suggested solution:

  1. Problem: The heater is not fully submerged in water due to air trapped in the spa plumbing. When the heater is energized, the air heats up faster than the water, damaging the heater element’s electrical insulation and causing a short circuit to the ground. This can cause the GFCI or breaker to trip and open all live circuits to the hot tub control. In extreme cases, the heated air can expand and cause an explosion, creating a hole in the heater housing.

  2. Solution: Replace the damaged heater. To prevent this issue from recurring, consider installing a simple automatic air bleeder before or after the heater manifold on the discharge side of the pump. This will ensure that the heater is fully submerged in water when it’s energized.

Remember, working with electrical systems can be dangerous. Always prioritize safety and consider consulting with a professional if you’re unsure about any of these steps.

ALL INFORMATION IS PROVIDED AS GENERAL HELP INFORMATION TO BE USED AT YOUR OWN RISK.